Tuesday, 9 December 2008

Tabasky . . . Monday, December 8

(caution: neither story nor photos are appropriate for children or those with weak stomachs)

Today, a smoky haze drifts over the city. Today is the celebration of Tabasky in the Muslim faith . . . a day to sacrifice a sheep (or goat, if a sheep cannot be afforded, and preferably male & white). The doing of which will be added to your ‘good deeds’ scale. At the end of life when a Muslim dies, they hope that their good deeds will balance heavier than their bad deeds and they will thus stand in greater chance that Allah will forgive their bad deeds and grant them entry to Paradise. Today is a day in which they demonstrate the substance or authenticity of their faith.

In Niger, this has also become a day to demonstrate their riches – or lack of poverty. For though it is required to only sacrifice one sheep for the entire family, many will sacrifice one sheep per family member. Others will sacrifice many more than their family members (10 sheep for a family of 2-3) to demonstrate they have the means to do so. This has also become, for 90% of the populace (according to my language tutor), more about having meat to eat today than religious fervor.

The price of sheep has been steadily climbing this last month – from 20,000cfa ($50) to 35,000 – 50,000cfa ($75 – $125) this weekend. To skyrocketing prices today: 175,000 – 400,000cfa ($450 - $1000). For a country listed in the bottom five of poorest nations, over a million sheep (estimate of my language tutor) will be slaughtered today.

The day of celebration begins, for the whole country, following the 9 am prayers at the Grand Mosque in Niamey, after which the sheep at the mosque are sacrificed – the blood flowing being the sacrifice. Once this is done, it is broadcasted on the radio and the populace can then sacrifice their sheep.

Between 11-1 the carcasses are splayed out on stakes in mass bonfires on the roads – thus making the drive to my language lesson an obstacle course, as I evaded all the BBQs.

The sheep cook for 4-6 hours; however, this is not eaten today. The women cook the innards all day for the feast tonight. Tomorrow, the roasted lamb is cut in half – one part for the family to eat, the other half of which is distributed to various family and friends.

Throughout today and tomorrow, griotes (professional beggars) circulate through the streets pounding their drums in the hopes of being paid a gift. Tomorrow, they will gain possibly more money, but they circulate with a sac tied to their waist in which to collect morsels of roast lamb. To increase the chances of making money, they will sing acclaim to/of the family . . . telling great stories of their grandparents and parents.

As I drove home this evening, past more and more roasting lambs – giving up on counting them all – my heart was saddened by the slavery these people are in. Slavery to their religious image and the enormous amounts of money they are obligated to spend for this celebration. Saddened by the religious bondage of acts and deeds to gain possible entrance to Paradise; when God our Father and Creator of all has already paid the ultimate sacrifice, to give us freely what we can never gain or merit of our own efforts.

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