Sunday, 25 May 2014

Surprise!!!

Shopping in Niamey is always an adventure. 

Recently, while shopping for a team retreat, my friend and I spent five hours shopping for the necessary groceries.  Granted – one hour was for lunch at a restaurant so we had the energy to keep going!  We carefully timed out which grocery stores were open which hours in order to fit our lunch time in and maximize hitting the most stores as possible.  We also went to six grocery “stores” that day.

We started at the furthest grocery store – and got half of the supplies we were looking for.  Then the stop at the restaurant.  Then to the second store where we hoped to finish the list …. but alas, still some desired items were missing.  We stopped at a third grocery store downtown and got a few more items.  We then went to two grocery stands and one more store on the way home and managed to finish all but a few items on the list.  The final grocery store in town is closed in the afternoon until 4pm – so I went shopping again the next day to complete our shopping list.

As you can see from that story above …. shopping is an adventure!  Grocery shopping is a test of will and desire – do I really, really need what is on my list?  And how far out of my way am I willing to go to try to find it?

After five and half years here – I have a general sense of which stores sell which items and which store to go to in order to best maximize my time (hopefully) for the list of items I want. 

The furthest store out across town, Marina Market, has the more “exotic” food items – here, I usually find some fun finds albeit those likely to never appear again.  Once, I found quinoa!!  (After four years, I’ve never seen it since.)  If I am to find corn meal, this store is my best bet.  I try to visit this store once or twice a year.

Slightly closer to my home, but central downtown is Score …. it is a crazy mess to get through and parking – but I try to go once a month to stock up.  I buy meat and juice here.  I can usually get fun vinegars – mango, raspberry, balsamic – here too.  Sometimes these are in other stores, but usually not.  They also sell small tins of veggies which are perfect in cooking for one!  For a few months last term they sold bags of frozen raspberries (which were wonderful on yogurt with homemade granola for breakfast).  I paid about $15 for a bag – I bought these twice before his stock ran out and they have not been back since, but every time I go shopping here, I scan the freezers in hopes that maybe they are back.  I could also, if I so desired, buy a frozen pizza here for about $21 Cdn.

The next store closer in to my house is where I can usually find cheddar cheese or mozzarella (though it has been a few months since cheddar was available).  And about twice a year, I can find plain nacho chips here …. and once last year (but never again) I found Pringles Extreme Dill Pickle chips!!! (It was a happy Canadian moment!)

Once, I found a little box of ritz crackers (for which I paid about $8 Cdn) in the downtown store.  Alas, patience is the name of the game sometimes …. for at that time, the store with cheddar cheese was out!  But, after two months of waiting, cheddar cheese was back again and I was able to finally enjoy my favourite snack of ritz crackers and cheese!

Then, there is the neighbourhood corner store.  Here I find the best coffee in the city!!  It is a new find this term, and because sometimes he runs out of stock, I like to stock up on this in my pantry so I am not without!  Coffee is the one thing I will spoil myself to buy at (almost) any price to both have a good brand and to always have good coffee in the house.  (Cheese being the second “spoil me item” that I try to always have in the house, no matter the expense!) 

Here, I can also buy homemade tortillas, sometimes meat pies, cake mixes are new – and once he had Campbell’s Mushroom Soup (but I was about ten minutes too late to get in on the find and it hasn’t been back since)!!

This neighbourhood store is more expensive – but saves the hassle on trips downtown.  It also has become my snack central.  Often I am here picking up chips, coke or iced tea.  Today, was such a day of craving – I wanted chips and coke!

So, off to the neighbourhood store I drove – only to find it closed!  This rarely is the case.  He seems to be open 24/7 – in fact, in eleven months, this is only the second time I have found him closed!

Thus …. in an effort to satisfy my craving, I headed out to another little neighbourhood boutique.  He often has some interesting, not seen anywhere else items.  I have no idea where he sources his stock as I never see what he has in the larger stores in town …. I should stop in more often!

Today, in my shopping adventure – I found the following never to rarely seen before items:

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Pepsi: Is a rare, but recently slightly more frequent, find in Niamey.  This bottle has lost all its fizz.  But is still a wonderful taste for this Pepsi lover!!

Cheez Bit: There were no chips in the store (aside from a cheap knock-off version of Pringles that I was not adventurous enough to try.  I was thinking they might be kinda like Cheezies … and might give me that salty crunch I was craving.  Well – I got the crunch.  But, not so much the salty taste nor the cheese taste; in fact, they are void of any salt and any cheese flavour!  It is pretty much like eating crunchy cardboard with an air pocket in the middle.  (Yes, I am still eating them!)

Maltesers:  Now these alone was a scoop worth the driving adventure!!  Happy Chocolate Day!  Not sure how long these will be around – Perhaps I should buy the box to throw in my fridge drawer!

Nuts:  I was pretty happy to find the mini packages of nuts.  I love cashews and pistachios (well, pretty much any and all nuts) … and these are the perfect little packages to throw in my village bag should I need a snack while I am out and about!

So … all in all,today’s shopping adventure gets two pluses and two minuses!!  A 50% success rate and a definite adventure with some good (and bad) surprises!

Saturday, 24 May 2014

What Does Rain Mean to You??

Rain – for me now that I live in Niger – means many things:

1. moisture – after a long “dry and cold season” and a “dry and hot season” …. rain the first moisture in 7-9 months!

2.  cool air – each rain that comes breaks the high heat …. temperatures can drop 10-15 degrees from before the storm!

3. life and hope – for my Fulani villagers, I think that in part rain means hope for life …. they are subsistent farmers and the rain brings hope for food.  Especially this year during a famine following a bad harvest last Fall – they are eager to plant their fields and have food to eat again.

Today, the rain storm that came to my village was an answer to prayer.  Monday this week was the day following the first big rain storm.  Monday – all the men, women, and children descended upon their fields en masse and planted their millet for this year!

Today, the chief’s son told me this morning that the millet had started to poke out of the ground.  But, it needs rain to survive.  And again this morning, I prayed for rain …. a prayer that has been circling through my head and my words all week.

Today, it was six days since the last rain.  It was time.

Late this afternoon, at 2:22 pm, as I sat in a courtyard conducting one of my surveys, I glanced at the sky and saw the black clouds rolling in with sand.  Soon, we heard the thunder in the near-distance.  We packed up my survey and ran into the home – myself and seven other adults and three children! 

Following the rain – the chief’s son gave me my quote of the day:

Rain is God’s gift of air-conditioning to the poor people!!

So …. What does rain mean to you??

Monday, 19 May 2014

Market Day

Going to  village market is always much more fun than those in the city.  It is a smaller market, but it also means that I am generally walking around with a local friend – thus, I feel more free to take pictures as those there know my guide and offer permission without hesitation.

The village where I work has a village market on Sundays.  The market is located out about 8-10 km from the chief’s land and carries the name Kongou Gonga.  The first word, in Djarma, the word for a reed or stalk that is used to make covers for their gourd bowls (see picture below).  And the second word “Gonga”, means in Fulfulde, “truth”.  The chief’s son says that together, this means that this village site is the true location of where to find the stalks … or the village site with an inordinate amount of this plant.

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This village market would be like a Walmart … a little bit of everything one might need:

  • animals
  • food …. staples and sauce ingredients
  • pagne (cloth material] for sewing clothes
  • veils
  • household goods – batteries, electronics, soap etc…
  • cell phone charging station
  • food court

This market is somewhat centrally located in the village environ … most village sites and huts are within a 4-6 km walk of this marketplace.  As this market is just one day per week – food ingredients and household needs must be bought for the week – otherwise, one would need to walk 15-25 km into the capital to purchase what is needed …. or a 10-15 km walk to the Hamdallaye market (further out) – their market day is Tuesday. 

Animal Market:

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This animal market is smaller than in the city – and mostly available here is sheep and goats.  I have yet to see a cow or donkey at this animal market.  In general, the animals are cheaper here in the village market than they are in the city.  Though, the further from the city (to other village markets) the cheaper the price will be.  The Fulani from my village, this year during the famine, are earning money for their families through two village market activities:

a) cokitaki … purchasing an animal in a village market and then reselling the animal in Niamey for profit

b) coggi … herding animals bought in the market to the owner’s home for profit

The Fulani are animal herders – mostly cows, but also sheep and goats – so they are well situated to use the knowledge and experience they have in the domain of animals as a way to feed their families now that their granaries are empty.

 

Food – Staples:

Most food in this market – and most of my villagers – will buy their staple food (millet, corn, rice] by the bowl.  Purchasing by the bowl brings the cost down to an affordable price per day or week – versus buying an entire 100kg sack … the price of which as a one time disbursement of money is beyond their means.

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Right now – in the market, staple food is costing:

                                  per bowl                                                             per 100 kg sack

  • millet:                         650 francs  ($ 1.51 Cdn)                                  24,000 francs ($ 55.94Cdn)
  • corn:                          500 francs ($ 1.17 Cdn)                                    20,000 francs ($ 46.62 Cdn)
  • rice (1kg):                  500 francs ($ 1.17 Cdn)                                    22,000 francs ($ 51.28 Cdn)

Though the main staple for the Fulani is millet – I have learned that this year, because their granaries are empty and the price of millet is sky-rocketing due to the famine, most of the villagers are eating corn three times per day. 

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  • breakfast: corn mush porridge with baobob leaf sauce
  • lunch: corn couscous with onions and leaves
  • supper: corn mush porridge with either baobob leaf or squash sauce

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Food - Sauce Ingredients:

From what I’ve observed, most sauces contain some basic commonality: salt, oxo flavouring (mimido – the small yellow packets), oil, some sort of pepper flavour (either fresh, powder, or dried peppers fried in the oil), onions.  Then some sort of veggie can be added: tomato paste, squash, or leaves being the most common.  If it is a special meal, one might also add: carrots, potatoes, fresh tomatoes, potatoes, peanut butter.

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Everything above being packaged in small portion sizes – opposite of Costco in Canada where we buy in bulk.  The villagers will buy in small portions – enough to last for a week or two as they portion it out.

 

Clothing:

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Household Goods:

Sandals …. Laundry Soap (yellow packets) …. Soap:

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Medicine – these bottles are filled with a tree sap that is used as medicine

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One Stop Shop: sweet potatoes and jewelry

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Household Goods – toothbrush (stick), string

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Cell Phone Charging Station:

Where there is no electricity …. ingenuity flows!!  At the village market, everyone brings their cell phone to the cell phone charger – he has an old vehicle battery hooked up to jumper cables and multiple docking stations ready to go …. you leave your phone for a while and come back later.  There is an endless rotating line of phones waiting their turn!!

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And – finally, what shopping mall is complete without a ….

Food Court:

My favourite street food is farimaasa …. a wheat flour donut fried in oil.  I eat mine with sugar, but mostly the Nigeriens will eat theirs with a hot sauce poured in the bag.  These are sold on almost every street corner in the city every day!  It makes a nice cheap breakfast – I can buy five for 125 francs ($0.30)!!

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One question that I am asking during my Food Consumption Surveys that I am conducting this month, is to discover how many times per week a family will eat [xxxx] food.  In the village, as I ask how many times per week one might eat farimaasa – their response is “at the market” .,,, so basically, once per week!

~ photo credit and appreciation to visitor Joanne Beach for photos marked: JB  

Thursday, 15 May 2014

What Makes Baking Difficult in Hot Season??

1.  The extra heat in house.

2. The fan blowing the match out before the gas burner can light.

3. Getting a muffin tray lined with cupcake liners … and the fan rotating at the perfect angle to lift the liners out of the muffin tin and blow them all over the kitchen!!

What Makes Baking So Worth it in Hot Season??

Strawberry Cupcakes with Watermelon Sprinkles!!

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Shout out to Erin, Amber, Heather and Sharon – for the pretty cupcake liners!!

Shout out to Jenn for leaving me the yummy watermelon sprinkles when she left the country!!

Love you friends and thinking of you all tonight as I indulge in baked goodness!!

Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Reminiscent

At this time last year, I was driving all over Saskatchewan …. visiting family and friends, speaking in churches – meeting new friends.  And enjoying the beauty of the fields, lakes, snow, animals, grain elevators, old farmsteads, sunsets, and nature of this beautiful province.

This week, I’ve been looking back through my pictures of this journey and thought I would share my (many) favourites. 

Ode to the Prairies

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