Life at a Fast Pace . . .

Well, life (or rather new and interesting experiences) happen at such a fast pace here, it is impossible to keep up with all of them in blog posts. I have had a few blog ideas bouncing around in my head, but the interesting episodes of life - such as the sand storm and my water being cut - just seem to happen and take precedence.

Today is my catch up day on a few topics while I wait for my guests to wake up. My guests are the McIver family - Paul, Chantelle, Bennett and Arielle. They are the newly arrived team members and they arrived this morning - around 2 am, and by the time we all settled it was close to 4:30!

My favourite Bennett expressions of the day:

Can you turn down the heat here?

And when told that he was finally in Africa:

No we're not! We're in Auntie Kristi's house!

It is taking a bit of time to convince him that Auntie Kristi's house is in Africa!

So as they sleep and try to regulate their bodies to the new time zone and having travelled close to (if not more than) 36 hours, I will type stories and upload pictures from the last two weeks.

Language & Culture Study

Though I have not officially started my studies in Fulfulde, I have begun to pick up a few words from my Fulani guard and from my visits out in the village. Mostly, I can cover the greetings - African style. Typical North American greetings cover "How are you?" and that is about it for the socially required greeting. Here, I have learned that the string of greetings (I call this the "ça va" cycle) requires at minimum 5 greetings, more if you know the person. Though, if the answer does not change after the 3rd greeting, you can stop at 3. Yikes - so much to remember! Basically, the African greetings go like this:

Ça va? (How are you?)

et la santé? (and the health?)

et la famille? (and the family?)

et les enfants? (and the children?)

et le travail? (and the work?)

et la fatigue? (and the tiredness?) - this one is especially popular during hot season!!)

or

et la ________? (and the - insert temperature - heat, rain, cold, dust)

The same basic greetings apply in Fulfulde - though one will often add "and the animals?"; as the Fulani people are nomadic (or sedentary) herdsmen and their animals are their livelihood.

My French tutor has also mentioned that, much the same as the North American greetings, the answer is always affirmative - it is well, all is in peace, no problem, it is doing good, etc . . . For this "ça va" cycle is not where you are looking to receive an honest answer, just the polite response. Even if the person has no children (or if you are unsure if they do) you still ask after the children - because they live in a family situation and "the children" refers to those of the family (nieces or nephews) around them.

I am assuming there are exceptions to this - if you know someone is barren, this would likely not be appropriate. Nor, apparently is it appropriate necessarily in the city. For two days after I learned the length of the "ça va" cycle, I was in my favourite restaurant, chatting with the only waiter and I decided to practice all my new greetings. It went well with the health and family - up until I inquired about the children. He kinda got all embarrased and said he had none. oops! So I asked about his work and he stumbled an answer and when he came back, he asked about my friend who often comes in with me. It was an awkward moment.

The other day in the village, I was practicing this "ça va" cycle in Fulfulde. Usually, it does not go very well with those who are from the outskirts of the village and do not know me well. I ask them how they are and the ladies giggle and say "oh, she speaks Fulfulde" (which Lisa translates for me). So I rarely get to practice the whole cycle and listen to different responses. However, the other day, I had learned another word - how to say "a little". In African style, if you know something "a little" you will usually say "un peu un peu" - roughly translating "little little", the double word use is to emphasize how little. So when the ladies giggled again that I spoke Fulfulde, I thought I would use my new phrase - and responded with "sedi sedi". They thought that was even more cute. So I explained this to Lisa when we sat back down. Well, turns out that "little little" in Fulfulde is "seda seda" - so by changing the vowel, my phrase was the equivalent of saying "lattle lattle" in English. So, I ended up communicating that I really spoke just a little, and emphasized it even more by repeating my error!! So, that made for a good laugh - and we never did learn what "sedi" is.

Another thing I am learning is that Fulfulde is at times quite literal, if they do not have a word for something new - they relate it to something they do:

gas = car water

pus (medical) = sore water

juice = fruit water (translated directly it actually means "child of the tree water")

_______________

lotion = body oil

lip balm = medicine oil

Actions are often different as well - for instance, one drinks cigarettes and pills.

Well, enough about the language and my mistakes for now!

Crowning of a Chief

Last Sunday, Lisa and I had the unique opportunity to go to the crowning of a new chief in a village within Niamey. We went as some of her Fulani friends were performing in the ceremony - a group of girls sang a traditional Fulani song and then performed a traditional Fulani dance.

We arrived with the group right in time for their presentation and found ourselves in the middle of the "stage" with them. The organizers asked if we were with them and we responded yes, but not presenting with them. They found us somewhere to sit - in the front row on couches and next to the dignitaries! As we looked around the large square of attendees, we decided we were the only white people in the whole crowd of at least a couple thousand!!

We think we were sitting next to the mayor (or someone of equal importance) as the two police/soliders in front of him were the only ones around the square with guns and bullet proof vests on. Though we appreciated being close to photograph our friends, we wondered about the location - were something to start, the bullets would likely be flying in our direction! We also managed to capture (illegally) on film the 102nd use of duct tape!!

It was a fascinating cultural event. There were more than a few ethnic groups presenting their local songs and dances. During each presentation there appeared to be some organized payment or tipping. A group of ladies (5 to 30) would get up and walk over to the presenting group and drop money on the ground, place it in the mouth of someone or lick the money bill and stick it to the forehead of someone. As the new chief was in a district by the river, the fishermen of the village presented him with a baby crocodile!

Before the ceremony, we spent some time in the village (within Niamey) watching our friends have their traditional Fulani make-up put on for the ceremony:

This is the group performing that we came with, doing their song and then their traditional dance:

These men, though Fulani, are not with our village but they performed some of the dances together. The one man seemed "full of rhthym" as he could not stop moving and his smile was contageous! He sat on the ground and bumped along, he danced, he flipped through the air. At one point he kept looking motioning for me to come out and join him. I declined!! Though I may join in my village, I did not need my first attempt at a Fulani dance to be in front of such a large and public crowd!!

These three guys here came and gave Lisa and I a solo, in hopes that we would give them a gift. This is also quite common in public events, marriages and baby naming ceremonies.

Towards the end of the ceremony, the new chief was brought in under a blanket. He was announced with these long trumpets and drums and then his turban was wrapped around his head. The entire ceremony was called: "L'inturbinasation" - basically the crowning, but the act of placing the chief's turban on his head.

My First Camel Ride

This week, the guard of my friends - the Marineau family - had his neighbour bring his camel by their place. He was coming to town with a load of straw, so he stopped by so that I and another friend could get on the camel and have our first ride! It was exhilerating - though at first a little pertubing. I was quite excited until we got outside and I saw the camel. I then realized how high up I would be and that I was scared of heights. I asked Daniel what would happen if I fell off when the camel stood up - he said he did not purchase any insurance for the ride (I doubt it is available)!!

But I bravely got on the camel and it was sooooo much fun! I am glad that I did it.

The Life Bizarre in Africa

Yesterday, the bizareness of life in Africa hit again:

I am currently without water. Now this is not an unusual occurance. It happens from time to time throughout the city for varying amounts of time - a few hours, an all-day-event - but this time, it was just me, not my neighbourhood . . .

While I was away from my house in the morning, I received the news that the water company had come and taken away my water meter - meaning that I no longer had water at my house!!

The initial information was that I had not paid my water bills (yes, plural). Odd, I have only been here three months, and the most recent bill only just arrived on Friday afternoon. So I went running over to the office to pull out the bills (stamped 'PAID') for the last few years.

After contacting the office, we were told that my landlord, many years ago, had owed a bill of 700,00 francs (~ $ 1,500 cdn) and so he had them put in a new meter start anew. Now - there are not two meters at my house. And that just sounds bizarre that they would put in a second meter, unless he arranged to make payments on the old meter while the new tenants continued with the new. When my guard Aklinine spoke with the office, he was told that I had missed 89 bill payments! (approximately 7.5 years).

So that is the most bizarre part - it makes absolutely no sense they would wait 7 years and then suddenly decide "ah, today seems like a good day to recuperate this money". But, that is what they did - and hence, no water meter!

I started thinking of a long-term contingency plan, including possibly staying that the guest house for a few days until the error could be straightened out. Hoping the amount the landlord supposedly owed was not true, as I doubt he has that kind of money - would I have to move?!!

When I returned home, I took stock and decided I had enough filtered water to last me 1-2 days. Though, I would need some for flushing the toilets and having a 'shower'. My teammates were all very generous in offering to bring over water until this was fixed. I took the first offer and the Marineau family brought me some water while I was out, which Aklinine promptly used to water my plants! So, when I returned home, my night guard headed out with the container to get me some more water for the house (I am assuming he received some from a neighbour).

My morning routine felt a bit like 'pioneer days'. I rationed out a bit of water for a bath and then used that to water the new plants that I just planted yesterday morning. Though the other plants in the yard can likely survive a day or two, I knew the newbies needed some water.

Later this morning I received a call. The water guys are coming back today to reinstall my water meter. YAY! It appears they took out the wrong meter - wrong house and wrong landlord!! (Though the first name is the same, the last name is different!)

Life in Africa. And I now have another funny story to laugh at for few days!!

Sand Storm Blowing In

Last night I witnessed my first sand/rain storm blowing in from the desert. It was an incredible phenomenom to watch!!

I was outside practicing my Fulfulde with my guard Ken, when I noticed the clouds. I asked him if it sand coming from the desert and he affirmed my guess. I ran for my camera as he ran through the yard appearing to prepare/hunker down. I was a bit curious - but of course, the 'newbie' had noooo idea what was coming!

I got a bit of it on video and pictures, but I missed recording the best part. As the sky turned orange, I noticed my guard turning on the outside security lights - again, I was thinking it was a bit early, but decided to follow suit with the light in the garage. I need to unlock the door to get this one on. By the time I got the key and left my patio it was beginning to look a bit like dusk. And by the time I left the garage for my house, I had to hold my t-shirt over my mouth and nose and close my eyes periodically for all the sand blowing around. It was black as midnight!!

And after that came the rain - a torrential downpour!! It rained most of the night!

I am hoping to get a better video next time this happens, though other missionaries who have been here three years say this is the first time they saw anything like this! My house help Rochelle says that the sand only comes this bad the first rain - or if does not rain again for another month, then it will be the same.

The video does not seem to upload, but I will keep trying!

It's Beginning to Feel a lot like Christmas . . .

So, Lisa and I wandered around the village singing this Christmas song the other day. Now why, one may wonder, were we singing this song in May, in +50 degree heat and with no snow in sight (let alone not even rain clouds)?? Good question.

Last Friday, we reached the mid-point of our training on goat care in the village. We have partnered with Samaritan's Purse, who have provided a veternarian who is teaching on basic animal care (goats, cows, camels), disease recognition and prevention. There will also be some training on micro-enterprise and on how to use goat milk and yoghurt to sell in the marketplace.

Friday marked the day we delivered 100 goats to the village. The village committee had chosen 25 recipients of the goats - and each of these 25 women received their goats - 3 females and 1 male.

When the goats arrived, so did 100+ people from the village! It indeed felt like Christmas! For the gift was not just to these 25 women, but to the village as a whole. The gift of goats follows the Fulani habani (animal loaning) tradition. After these goats have had young and the young are weaned, the original goats will then be passed along to another 25 ladies in the village. In this way, these 100 goats will bless many in the village with milk for their children and a livelihood through being able to sell product in the marketplace.

Under the village tree shelter, the recipients gathered on one end patiently waiting the goats to be unloaded - four by four. First 2 Goats:

They stepped forward when called to pass over their rope and sign their names - often circles, lines or squiggles - as they are illiterate and often were not quite sure what to do with the pen. Their goats were then brought around the table and Lisa and I wandered around to take photos of them with their goats and the little village boys proudly 'herding' a group of four goats for each of the women.

Goats: These goats are specially bred for the heat of Niger and are capable of birthing twice a year - often twins. This breed also produces considerably more milk than other local goats.

It was amazing to be a small part of this day - to see the excitment on everyone's face and then the joy and pride on the face of each woman as she received her goats.

Please pray that the gift of these goats and training will be a symbol of God's love which draws these Fulani and this village to know of God's love. That they will hunger after His truth and seek to follow Him who can provide all their needs - physical and spiritual.

Are my Geckos now pets?

My nieces were so excited to see the picture of my cute gecko! And quite enchanted with the fact that he changes colours. They were both on the phone chattering back and forth between themselves:
'So if he is on an orange wall he turns orange?'
'Yup'
'and if he is on the white wall he turns white!!'
'yeah'
'and if he is on a black wall then he changes to black'
'yup'.

Granted, they are right - it is fascinating how a lizard can do this! I finally jumped in to say that I only saw him turn white on a white wall, but I imagined he could turn any colour if he was on it. (Turns out orange is not a possibility - got one in an orange bucket today and he went kinda creamy/pink.)

During the conversation, my nieces named my two 'pet' geckos:

Sparkle Unicorn (Michella named this one)

Rosebud Flower (Madelynn named this one)

So now, the geckos in my house are named and in their minds - Auntie Kristi's pets!

Update: by my count (and to the best of my knowledge) - 1 left to chase/release from the house!

What I learned today . . .

I learned today that when a can of tomato paste gets too hot, the paste explodes out of the can - like a fully loaded and firing ketchup bottle - as soon as the can opener dents a hole!!!

My kitchen was wonderfully decorated with many red squiggles of tomato paste. Over the floor, on the freezer, up the wall (so high I had to climb a chair to get it off) and all over the counter. Amazingly - none on me!

I consequently learned that I need to rinse the cans of tomato paste in cool water before opening them in hot season.

Favourite Photos - April in Niger

Yes, this crocodile is in the trunk of a car. We were driving out to the farm last week when we passed this car. Tim pulls over and Lisa and I jump out with our cameras. When we get to the car, the trunk lid was closed, which Lisa mentioned, so he opened the trunk again - only long enough for us to quickly snap our photos - and we ran back to the truck, laughing at the bizareness of the situaton and our guts to take a picture, and wondering if the kerfuffle behind us was the guy wanting us to pay for the picture!

Driving in the ditch - because it was a smoother ride than the paved road full of potholes!!

Traffic Jam in Niger - the van is broken down on the bridge and we had to wait behind the line of donkey carts heading to market.

More Favourite Photos on my photo site:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristi.Hopf/AprilFavouritesNiger

. . . the Gecko Saga continues

So, a week ago, I finally succeeded in chasing the gecko out of my house!! It was late in the evening and both of us startled each other in the hallway at the same time! I quickly closed all the bedroom doors and laid towels in front of them to seal any gaps. Opened the outside door and attempted to chase the gecko outside.

After thirty minutes, I had only succeeded in getting him close to the door - but not out. At one point, he ran under my sandal in the hallway, and had I not seen him go under, I would never have known he was there! Then . . . I lost him! As I searched around the doorway I suddenly noticed my wall blinking at me. I looked closer and noticed that my wall with eyes was kinda bumpy! Who knew?!! Geckos do have chameleon like qualities. This gecko had turned the exact same colour was the paint - had he not blinked, I would not have seen him.

So the chase began again. He evenutally came down the wall enough that I was able to catch him underneath a pail lid. So I stood in the hallway, sweating in the heat (no fans in the hallway) and holding this lid against the wall trying to figure out what to do. I thought maybe I could slide the lid down the wall and scoop him onto the floor so I could slide him out of the house. I tried this - after a few slides down, I noticed the gecko had found a gap and was waving its hand/paw (?) out from under the lid. So I lifted the lid a slight bit and he quickly withdrew back inside. I got the lid close to the floor and attempted to scoop downwards, however, the gecko did not comply and started to race up the wall again! So I quickly trapped him under the lid and tried again! After four failed attempts at this strategy, I again stood in the hallway holding a lid against the wall and wondering: "Now what?!!".

I finally remembered that my friend's househelp chases the geckos from the house with a broom. So I slid the lid down again and braced it against the wall with a chair. I found the broom, opened the door again, and lifted the lid off the wall. Sure enough, he ran up the wall, but with the broom I was able to direct him easier towards the door and out he ran!

45 minutes later - SUCCESS!

Though, the next day, I found myself feeling kind of at odds at what to do now. My two-week long quest was finished. I no longer had anything to occupy my evenings!

I need not have worried, two days later I woke up to a now familier chirping noise and upon exiting my bedroom - I saw two more geckos in the hallway!! Yikes!! Where are they coming from?!? Perhaps there were always three and I thought just one. At any rate, the new geckos are now laying eggs - for I have now seen two baby geckos about 1 inch long. And I can only guess at how many eggs have been laid in the house.

A few nights ago, one of the geckos found his way into my bedroom. I first heard him drop from the ceiling in the bathroom and skitter accross the tile counter. I lost track of him after that and went to sleep. Around 3 am, I heard him again. He was under my bed! When he dropped off my bed, I heard his suction feet pop off first and then I heard him hit the floor - two distinct and separate sounds! Aside from my concern that he would crawl into bed with me, it was a fascinating discovery!

And last night, I found another, though perhaps it is the second one that I couldn't find for a week. I now have two geckos trapped in two separate rooms. Every so often, I go in with a broom hoping they will appear so I can chase them out. But they are smart little lizards - they know when they are being hunted - and they hide for days! In fact, I usually only see them while they are in the process of moving to a different room once they know for sure I am chasing them.

So my gecko count to date in the house: 6

Here is one that I chased out (yes, I stopped to take a picture before the chase began!):